Sunday, December 13, 2009

Jodhpur royals' new foundation



Shivraj Singh, the Yuvraj (prince) of Jodhpur, on the May 2002 cover of Outlook Magazine. The most eligible bachelor, avid polo player, and heir to the riches of Jodhpur royalty, suffered a serious head injury during a 2005 polo match. For a month he remained in coma, after surgery in Mumbai. It took two and a half years for Shivraj to walk unaided, but he can now climb stairs with a handrail, sign his name and write short emails, though reading remains difficult. The experience prompted his father, Maharaja Gaj Singh, to launch the Indian Head Injuries Foundation.

Telegraph

Working with British and American neurologists, for whom India’s injured could provide an invaluable research resource, Gaj Singh hopes both to prevent head trauma, and improve care at every stage. While India’s private hospitals are world-class, there is widespread ignorance of elementary safety measures – helmets and seat belts. Nor is it generally understood what needs to be done in the critical “golden” hour or two after an injury when airways must be kept clear and wounds staunched to maintain the brain’s oxygen supply.

Shivraj had good treatment during these first “golden” hours, when secondary damage often occurs. From hospital in Jaipur, he was flown to Mumbai. None the less, the initial injury to his left frontal lobe, which controls speech, was compounded by a build-up of pressure within the brain, and he almost died in transit.

Home was deemed more helpful to his recovery than hospital so he returned to the Umaid Bhawan in Jodhpur, the vast palace, now partly a hotel, which is home to the royal family of the once independent princely state of Jodhpur, an area larger than Scotland. There, his father arranged an intensive programme of physio-, speech and occupational therapy to encourage new areas of the brain to take up the functions of the damaged parts. Despite improvements, Shivraj’s personality seemed lost. “Then one day, just after a neuropsychologist had reported that he showed no expression, a cousin visited. Listening to him, for the first time Shivraj laughed and smiled.”

Shivraj now plays Scrabble and chess, and has helped design a garage for his father’s 12 vintage cars. Speech has returned, though it is often inaudible. He can even drive himself, on the miles of private roads within the estate. “And he shoots,” says his father, alarmingly, “even though his hand shakes.”

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Friday, November 20, 2009

Rampur-Bushahr and Tibet



The rulers of the Rajput kingdom of Rampur-Bushahr in Himachal Pradesh trace their ancestry to Sri Krishna, the warrior prince of the Yadu clan in the Vedic era, also hailed as an avatar of Bhagwan Vishnu. In the photo above iconic images of Krishna are painted on the walls inside the Padam Palace.

The name of the state was Bushahr or Bashahr, and it's capital was Rampur, which often substitutes for the name of the entire state in some documents. Tradition states that Pradyumna, the son of Krishna, traveled to the hills where he slew the Asura king Banasur and married his daughter. The ruling family traces it's ancestry to more than a 100 generations.



The Padam Palace is in Rampur, and was built in 1925, while the older Shish Mahal can be seen in the background. Rampur is located on the banks of the River Sutlej, which originates in Lake Mansarovar and passed through the length of the principality of Bushahr. Recorded history for Rampur-Bushahr, and for the rest of Himachal Pradesh, knows of many ancient warrior clans which have left behind coins of their rulers' reigns. These clan-states later fractured into petty holdings under chiefs known as Ranas and Thakkuras. From among these new monarchies began to emerge from the 1st century CE, like Kangra, Chamba, and also Bushahr. The early rulers of Rampur-Bushahr held the title of Rana and imposed their authority on other chieftains.



A horn at the Bhimakali Temple Museum in Sarahan, higher up in the mountains and the summer retreat of the rulers of Rampur-Bushahr. The state fought against neighboring kingdoms like Kulu, Gharwal (in Uttarakhand), and Suket, but a great expansion of territory occurred in the 17th century under Rana Kehari Singh. From 1679-84 a war had been going on between the kingdoms of Tibet and Ladakh, the latter were being assisted by the Mughal governor of Kashmir. When Rana Kehari Singh went on a pilgrimage to Mansarovar he was met by a Tibetan military commander, who asked for his aid and a formal treaty between the Hindu and Buddhist kingdoms was negotiated.



With this alliance the war was favourably concluded and the border between these states was defined. Rana Kehari Singh got the upper Kinnaur region, while the Kingdom of Kulu annexed the territory of Lahul, and the Tibet-Ladakh boundary was defined. Trade between Rampur-Bushahr and Tibet was increased and the Lavi fair has been held each year in November at Rampur, where Tibetan traders flocked to sell their wares and buy goods from other Indian states. The Rampur-Bushahr and Tibet treaty was commemorated in murals painted in the old Shish Mahal building (above), and it was said that it would remain in force till the snows on Mount Kailash melt.



Sadly the original murals in the building were destroyed during the Gorkha occupation of Rampur-Bushahr from 1803-15, and what is seen today are 19th century restorations (above). After the Anglo-Gorkha war Mahendra Singh, then ruler of Rampur-Bushahr was raised to the rank of Raja. The state received a salute of nine guns as it had the largest territory among the hill-states. After Indian Independence in 1947 the hill-states were grouped together to form Himachal Pradesh. Virbhadra Singh, former chief minister of Himachal Pradesh and presently the Union Minister of Steel at Delhi, is the head of the royal family of Rampur-Bushahr.



Namgia is the last important village with modern amenities on the old Hindustan-Tibet road, along the upper course of the Sutlej. Two kilometers downstream the Spiti River flows into the Sutlej. From Namgia the Sutlej can be crossed and after 10 km the sleepy hamlet of Tashigang is reached; from there it's a short trek to the pass of Shipki-La beyond which lies the village of Shipki in Tibet.

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Saturday, October 24, 2009

Splendour of Indian Princely States



An oil painting which depicts the royal procession at the Delhi Durbar in 1903. At the head is the British Viceroy of India, Lord Curzon with his wife, followed by the Duke and Duchess of Connaught, and then the rulers of Hyderabad and Mysore princely states together. This durbar, or royal court, was held in honor of Edward VII's ascent to the British throne. Edward could not attend and sent his brother, the Duke of Connaught, to represent him.

This painting is part of an exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London titled "Maharaja: The Splendour of India’s Royal Courts", open from October 10 to January 17. Many of the paintings, photographs, arms, armour, jewelry, and other items of royal splendour were brought from India after months of negotiations with the descendants of the princely families and other private owners.

The greatest contribution is by Mewar, hailed as the world's longest serving dynasty going back to 734 CE. The royal family has turned many of its centuries old properties into hotels and formed a company, the HRH Group of Hotels. "We were the first family in India to convert our palaces into hotels in the late 1960s and 1970s," says Princess Padmaja Kumari, a third-generation hotel executive. "It was the only way to maintain and preserve them. They've been fully modernized with regard to amenities such as Wi-Fi and food-and-beverage outlets. However, they maintain their character, which is why people want to stay in them."
Hotel news
Their portfolio also includes foundations, museums, trusts and charities. Among the royal properties are four Grand Heritage Palaces, six Royal Retreats, and former hunting lodges. Another property, Lake Palace, is owned by the Mewar family and operated by Taj Hotels. The Shiva Nivas Palace, with only 19 suites, offers 24-hour room service, free Wi-Fi, a swimming pool, squash courts and a spa. Meanwhile, the Shikarbadi Hotel, a Royal Retreat, was once a hunting lodge. Covering 250 acres, it offers horse stables, a cricket field and nature trails, 24-hour in-room dining, fitness facilities and a pool.

Visitors to HRH Group hotels can experience the extensive Mewar holdings, which include the largest crystal collection under one roof, vintage car collections, and a sound and light show.

Some of the other items in the exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum are:



A traditional royal howdah, elephant seat, made of carved wood, silver, gilded silver, velvet, and silk brocade. This howdah, complete with parasol, comes from the collection of the Maharajas of Marwar. The rear seat would have been occupied by an attendant bearing a parasol or chauri.



Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ‘reverso’ watches, made with steel, leather, enamel, and gold, were created specifically for wearing on the polo field in India. The watch on the left was created for Maharaja Sawai Man Singh II of Jaipur for distribution to his favourite officers and bears the emblem of his elite Sawai Man Guards, which later became the 17th battalion of the Rajputana Rifles regiment in the Indian Army. That on the right bears an image of the Bhagwan Shri Rama, from whom the rulers of Jaipur claim descent.

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